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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Die kühleren Tage bringen auch bei Vogue neben langen Ärmeln Jacken und Mäntel mit sich. Ich finde die Frage immer spannend, wie gerade die eleganten Designerschnitte dieses Thema mit den dickeren Stoffen angehen. Noch kann man die Herbst-Kollektion hier ansehen oder, wenn man das lieber mag, aufbereitet als Lookbook. Kostüm Donna Karan - Modell V1465 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Daß man winterliche Stoffe und sogar Strickstoffe figurbetont verarbeiten kann zeigt das Label Donna Karan mit dem Schnitt V1465. Selbst die Jacke mit den lässig fallenden Revers hat Teilungsnähte. Doch auch der Rock und ganz besonders das Top werden durch Nähte auf Figur gebracht. Wer sich einen (meist komplizierten und/oder aufwendigen) Designerschnitt nicht zutraut, der kann sich für das klassische Kostüm V9138 entscheiden, das zur Vogue Easy Kollektion gehört. Kleid ralph rucci - Modell V1458 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Als ausgewiesener Kleiderfan komme ich in der Vogue Kollektion ja immer auf meine Kosten. Und von den ausgefeilten Schnitten vom Label Ralph Rucci kann ich nie genug bekommen. Leider sind sie gerade durch die tollen Teilungsnähte auch schwer an die Figur anzupassen. Aber natürlich ist gerade der Herbst auch eine gute Zeit für Hosen. Sehr elegant wäre hier V1464, eine weite Hose im Sailor-Stil. Weit und lässig scheint auch die Tendenz bei den Jacken und Mänteln zu sein. Vogue-typisch das Kathryn Brenne Modell V9135: Zunächst formlos und überweit, bekommt es durch strategisch geschickt plazierte Tunnelzüge Raffinesse. Wer es hingegen locker und lässig haben möchte, für den ist vielleicht das Marcy Tilton Modell V9140 die richtige Wahl? Durch den großen Kragen kommt hier gleich noch etwas Drama ins Spiel. Kleid "Easy" - Modell V9123 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Nachgenäht Kleid V9123 Zwischen Kleid und Mantel wollte sich auch unsere Testerin Tapsie83 nicht recht entscheiden und hat daher die elegante Kombination aus Jacke und Mantel V9123 gewählt. Der Schnitt gehört zu den "Very Easy Vogue" Schnitten und bietet so auch wenig geübten Näherinnen die Möglichkeit, auch klassische Modelle anzufertigen. Der Mantel ist einfach gerade geschnitten und bekommt durch einen Bindegürtel Figur. Das Kleid wird mit Teilungsnähten auf Figur gebracht, eine Taillennaht erleichtert zudem Figuranpassungen. Ein interessantes Detail finde ich den Schulterabnäher auf dem Rückenteil. Denn normalerweise muß man die Mehrweite hier einhalten, was aber bei festen Stoffen, sei es Baumwolle, sei es Viscose oder Seide, nur schwer geht. Der Abnäher vergrößert hier also die Optionen. Für einen Hauch Romantik sorgen die Ärmelvolants. Kleid und Mantel "Easy" - Modell V9123 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Auf eine saubere Verarbeitung müssen hier übrigens auch Anfänger nicht verzichten. Mantel und Kleid werden gefüttert. Erhältlich ist der Schnitt in den Größen 32 bis 48, wobei man die Wahl zwischen den Größen 32 - 40 oder 40 - 48 hat. Unsere Testerin passt gut in die Maßtabelle und hat sich für Größe 8 entschieden, was der deutschen 34 entspricht und auch ihrer sonstigen Schnittgröße. Ein wenig mehr Platz am Po war (erwartungsgemäß) gefragt, da genügte es aber, die Nahtzugaben etwas zu reduzieren. (Bei 1,5cm vorgegebener Nahtzugabe hat man ja auch noch Spielraum. ) Das Potential des Schnittes als "kleines Schwarzes" war es, was Tapsie83 an dem Schnitt angezogen hat und so hat sie jetzt (erst einmal) das Kleid genäht. "Ich bin immer noch froh über meine Wahl, es ist ein Schnittmuster für das „Kleine Schwarze“, und das kann Frau immer im Schrank gebrauchen. Dieser Schnitt ist ein guter Grundschnitt, er hat ordentlich Potential." Auch wenn sie sich im Moment noch nicht ganz sicher ist, ob sie die Volants mag oder nicht. - Aber abtrennen geht ja immer. Das kleine Schwarze (Der Mantel soll dann noch folgen, ich hoffe, wir sehen irgendwann hier oder in der Galerie auch ein Bild davon. ) Keine Probleme gab es bei der Stoffwahl. "Leightweight Woolen" hat sie für sich in einen Stoff aus 70% Schurwolle und 30% Polyamid "übersetzt". Schwarz, denn siehe oben... das kleine Schwarze sollte es werden. Vom dünnen Schnittmusterpapier war unsere Testerin nicht ganz so begeistert, von der Anleitung hingegen um so mehr. "Der Schnitt zeigt jeden Schritt in Wort und Bild, ich fand mich gut an die Hand genommen. Dadurch habe ich mir das auch zugetraut und ich werde dann eher mal Geld in Anleitungen investieren, da mir das System sehr gut gefällt. Bei reinen Textanleitungen überlese ich entweder mal was, oder gerate ins Stocken, aber hier war es so, was der Text nicht erklärte, zeigte das Bild." Daher hat sie sich auch an die Anleitung gehalten, nur die Nahtlinien hat sie sich lieber eingezeichnet, um sich beim Nähen sicherer zu fühlen. Sonst wurde nichts verändert. Nur beim Einnähen des Reißverschlusses und ein Annähen der Volants hätte es aus ihrer Sicht noch ein wenig ausführlicher sein können. Trotzdem kann sich Tapsie83 gut vorstellen, den Schnitt noch öfter zu nähen. "Ich würde eine lässige Jerseyvariante ausprobieren, das Rockteil weiter und kürzer und keine Volants, bin da noch am Überlegen, ob ich sie nicht doch abtrenne." Daher auch eine klare Empfehlung für den Schnitt, nicht unbedingt als erstes Nähprojekt, aber für jeden, der klassische Schnitte mag. Und ein rundum positives Fazit: "... ich habe gelernt, dass ich mir vorher Gedanken um den Schnitt machen sollte, wie soll es wirken und einfach auch mal Mitarbeiter fragen, ob der Stoff zum Projekt passt. Ich bin wieder mit amerikanischen Schnitten „versöhnt“ und habe auch gemerkt, das ich einfach regelmäßiger Nähen muss. Ich mag klassische Sachen, unaufgeregt, solide und einfach schlicht. Obwohl ich Schwarzträgerin bin (Grufti), fehlte mir das „Kleine Schwarze“ und das habe ich jetzt. (...) Der Schnitt erfodert etwas Geduld, zumindestens beim Verbinden von Ober- und Unterteil und bei den Volants. (...) Grundsätzlich hat mich einfach die Art und Weise, das es Bild und Beschreibung gibt, sehr überzeugt, denn manchmal habe ich nicht sofort kapiert, was ich jetzt wie machen sollte und dann hat ein Blick aufs Bildchen dann doch geholfen und das am Ende ein Kleid entstanden ist." Wir danken der Firma Cremer KG aus Euskirchen (Generalvertrieb für McCall's (Butterick, McCall's, Vogue) in Deutschland), für den zur Verfügung gestellten Schnitt.
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