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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Da wir jedes Jahr ein Burgfest haben, auf dem allerlei Gewandete der verschiedensten Epochen herumlaufen und ich mir schon immer dafür ein Gewand machen wollte, ist jetzt die Zeit dafür gekommen. Mein Gatte hat die Ausrüstung eines Wikingers, daher macht es für mich Sinn als passendes Pendant neben ihm zu gehen. Auf den Märkten sind auch immer viele Stände mit enstprechendem Kleiderangebot. Doch persönlich gefällt mir das meiste nicht. Aus diesem Grund habe ich in diesem Jahr meine Kamera zum Burgfest mitgenommen und bin damit auf Recherche gegangen. Nach dem ich die vielen Kleider und Kleiderstile sah, bin ich mir nicht sicher, ob das, was ich jetzt erstelle, annähernd dem Kleidungsstil der Wikinger entspricht. Wirklich authentisch muß es für mich nicht sein, aber doch soweit, daß man es sich in der Wikingerzeit vorstellen kann. Ich werde das Kleid nicht mit der Hand nähen, sondern mit der Maschine. Am Ende, kurz bevor wir gingen, sah ich 2 Frauen in Kleidern, die ich mir als Wikingerfrauen habe vorstellen können. Um den Schnitt zu erstellen habe ich mir meine 3 Hefte hervorgeholt, die sich ansatzweise mit der Kleidung der verschiedenen Epochen beschäftigen: klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Daraus werde ich mir ein Unterkleid aus dunkelbraunem Leinen und ein orangefarbens Überkleid aus Wollstoff erstellen. klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Das benötigte Werkzeug liegt bereit und ich bin bereits dafür ausgemessen. klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Ich habe meine breiteste Stelle ermittelt: meinen Brustumfang. Davon ausgehende habe ich den Wert durch 4 geteilt, da ich ja nur 1/4 Schnittmusterteil zeichner. Die Länge habe ich auf dem karrierten Schnittmusterpapier angezeichnet. Danach habe ich auf der oberen Linie meine Schulterlänge eingezeichnet. Die restliche Strecke habe ich dann von der Linie um 4 cm nach unten verlegt und dort die Kurve für meinen hinteren Halsausschnitt eingezeichet. klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Die beiden Hauptteile sind einfache, gerade Stoffstücke, die einen Halsausschnitt bekommen haben. Dazu benötige ich ein eingesetztes Seitenteil, das mir die Weite um die Hüfte und den Po gibt. Dieses Teil habe ich an der geraden Seite des Hauptteils angesetzt und in gleicher Länge an mein Hauptteil gezeichnet. Leider hat sich hier das Schnittheft, an dem ich mich hauptsächlich orientiert habe, nicht ausgelassen. Es fehlen doch ein paar Hinweise. Die Schultern sind nicht abgeschrägt, sondern bleiben bei diesem Schnitt gerade. Die Ärmel sind ebenfalls gerade an das Hauptschnitteil angezeichnet. Dabei habe ich meine Ärmellänge als Basis genommen sowie den Handgelenksumfang. Dazu habe ich ein paar Zentimeter dazugegeben, damit ich ohne Aufwand in den Ärmel hineinkomme und nicht stecken bleibe. Die Schnittmusterteile sehen dann so aus: klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Wie an dem Seitenteil bereits zu sehen ist, habe ich ein Probeteil zugeschnitten, bevor ich meinen eigentlich Stoff zerschneide. Dieses Probeteil nähe ich so, daß ich es als 2. Unterkleid bei warmen Wetter tragen kann. Aktuell sieht das Probekleid so aus: klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Ich bin mit den Ärmeln und dem Ausschnitt zufrieden. Der Ärmel ist schmal und zu lang, aber ich komme wunderbar mit der Hand durch. Selbst wenn ich den Ärmel noch ein gutes Stück kürze, passt er gut. Der Halsausschnitt ist breit, aber nicht sehr tief. Das passt für mich soweit. Eventuell werde ich den Ausschnitt mit einer Borte verzieren. Die Seitenkeile, die ich für die Weite eingefügt habe, sind mir fast ein Stück zu weit geraten. Nach Angabe des Heftes, kann der Keil in der Weite selbst bestimmt werden. Ich werde nochmal darüber nachdenken, ob ich ihn etwas schmaler mache. Was mich jedoch an mir selber zweifeln lässt, ist das einsetzen des Keils. Das Einnähen des Keils ist für mich erstmal wie das Einsetzen eines Dreieckes wie bei einem Godet. Ich habe erst den geraden Ärmel an Vorder- und Rückenteil genäht. Dann hatte ich mir in meinem Kopf zurecht gelegt, daß ich den Keil bis an den Ärmel herannähe um dann anschließend Ärmel- und Seitennaht in einem Stück zu schließen. Das hat nicht funktioniert. Also habe ich dann den Ärmel ein Stück aufgetrennt und das Keilstück bis zum Beginn des Armloches genäht. Aber auch das funktionierte nicht. So sieht mein Seitenteil mit dem eingesetzten Keil und Ärmel aus. klick auf das Bild für die Großansicht Nachdem ich mein gutes, altes "Burda - Nähen leicht gemacht" aus dem Jahr 1997 zurate gezogen habe, werde ich die Keilteile wieder heraustrennen. Den Ärmel werde ich dann schließen, den Keil zusammennähen und dann erst einsetzen. Es stellt sich heraus, daß auch das Nähen von Mittelaltergewandung seine Tücken hat. Das Überkleid werde ich anhand des Unterkleidschnittes erstellen. Dort benötige ich keine Seitenkeile, da es mehr einer Schürze ähnelt. Wie sind Eure Erfahrungen beim Erstellen von Mittelaltergewandung? Welche Art von Unterkleidern näht Ihr? Erstellt Ihr Euren Schnitt selber anhand der Bücher über Mittelaltergewandung? Oder kauft Ihr Schnitte? Die gezeigten Bücher sind mein, käuflich erworbenes, Eigentum. Alle Bildrechte des Beitrages liegen bei mir, Ina Lusky/ Quälgeist.
  2. nowak

    Medusa - Kostüm

    Der Kölner Stadtanzeiger lies 2014 für drei Leser ein Kostüm schneidern (der online-Artikel ist hier: http://www.ksta.de/freizeit/kostuem-wuensche-unserer-leser-die-schnitte-zum-download,15190120,26308690.html). Die vermaßten Schnittteile zum Medusakostüm zeigt das pdf: Haube, Schlange und Unterkleid.