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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Meine Freundin hat gekauft: Alles Jersey: Shirts und Tops von Stefanie Brugger ISBN 978-3-86355-630-3 und ich durfte reinschauen. Ich finde mit Klebepunkten im Einband: 2 Schnittbogen, 62cm x 94 cm, beidseitig bedruckt. Alle Schnittteile in den Größen 34 bis 44, d.h. für OW 82 cm bis 100 cm. Das Buch ist klar gegliedert in Grundlagen und Projekte: Bei den Grundlagen (S. 6 bis 24) gibt es eine Jersey-Stoffkunde und es wird eingegangen auf Einlagen und Kurzwaren und Nähzubehör. Dann wird gezeigt: Jersey nähen mit der Overlockmaschine und Jersey nähen mit der Haushaltsnähmaschine. Dann geht es zu Größenauswahl/ Maßnehmen , Schnittmusteranpassen (Verlängern, Verkürzen und Übergang zwischen 2 Größen) und Übersicht der Schnittteile. Exemplarisch wird am Bild eines Schnittteils gezeigt, was die aufgedruckten Linien bedeuten. S. 26 bis 57 werden wichtige Verarbeitungsschritte gezeigt, angefangen vom Vorbereiten und Zuschneiden, dem Zusammensetzen eines Shirts, Bündchen, Einfassen, Beleg, Säume, Knöpfe und Druckknöpfe, Poloverschluss, Raffen/Kräuseln, Verzierungen. Weitere Verarbeitungsmethoden wie seitliche Schlitze, tropfenförmige Aussparung, aufgenähte Rüschen, amerikanischer Ausschnitt, Bubikragen, Fake-Knopfleiste, Kellerfalte, Lagenlook werden direkt am Projekt gezeigt. Schnittteile: Es gibt 3 verschiedene Vorderteile und 2 verschiedene Rückenteile, dazu je ein Vorder- und Rückenteil mit angesetzter Passe. Jedes Teil hat noch verschiedene Ausschnitt- und Saumvarianten und man kann im Prinzip alles miteinander kombinieren. Dazu gibt es noch 3 Ärmel (schmal, ausgestellt und oben angekraust), die ebenfalls verschiedenen Längenmarkierungen haben. Ich habe mal exemplarisch ausgemessen: OW 100cm wäre nach der Maßtabelle Gr. 44. Im Schnitt messe ich bei Gr.44 auch 100cm, die Schnitte sind also ohne Zugaben konstruiert. Zu einer Oberarmweite 31cm in der Maßtabelle messe ich am Ärmel 33cm. In 20 Projekten wird die Wandlungsfähigkeit gezeigt. Alle Projekte sind gleich gegliedert: Ich habe mal vom Modell Rügen kopiert: U-Boot-Ausschnitt Belege an Halsausschnitt und Saum Brusttasche lange Ärmel geschwungener Saum. Du brauchst: geringelten Jersey: 140 – 150 cm kontrastfarbenen Stoff für Belege und Brusttasche: ca 20 cm leichten Baumwoll-Jersey leichte bi-elastische Einlage, z.B. Vlieseline G 785: ca 20 cm Schnitteile: 4, 5, 6, 12 Zuschneiden: aus Hauptstoff: je 1x Schnittteil 4 (Vorderteil) und Schnittteil 5 (Rückenteil) mit U-Boot-Ausschnitt und geschwungenem Saum, am Halsausschnitt und unten mit Nahtzugabe (nicht Saumzugabe) im Stoffbruch zuschneiden 2 x gegengleich Schnittteil 6 (Ärmel) als Langarm mit Saumzugabe aus Belegstoff: 1 x Schnittteil 12 (Brusttasche) Belege für den Halsausschnitt von Vorder- und Rückenteil (etwa 2,5 cm breit) und den Saum (3 cm breit); vgl. Seite 42 aus Einlage: Belege für den Halsausschnitt von Vorder- und Rückenteil (etwa 2,5 cm breit) und den Saum (3 cm breit) Dann folgen auf 2 Seiten die wesentlichen Verarbeitungsschritte mit Fotos und einem zusätzlichen Gestaltungstipp. Fazit: Mir gefällt das Buch gut. Es fehlen Schnitte mit Raglan und Kapuze, aber dann wäre alles vielleicht nicht anfängertauglich gewesen – und anfängertauglich ist das Buch wirklich. Dass bei Gr. 44 Schluss ist, ist schade, aber es liegt vermutlich daran, dass figurbetonte Shirts bei größeren Größen besser Abnäher oder Teilungsnähte haben, damit sie faltenfrei sitzen. Ich freue mich, dass ich in das Buch reinschauen durfte. Kaufen werde ich es für mich nicht, weil ich mir praktisch selbst bereits einen solchen Schnittbaukasten erstellt habe – nach meinen Maßen.
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