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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Bild: Haupt Verlag Textilen im Modedesign Autor: Gail Baugh Seitenzahl: 320 Preis: € (D) 39,90/€ (A) 41,10/CHF 53,90 ISBN: 978-3-258-60034-5 Erschienen im Haupt Verlag Diesmal stelle ich ein Buch aus meinem eigenen Bestand vor. Es gibt ja so viele Stoffbezeichnungen und die Frage, was den jeweiligen Stoff auszeichnet, wodurch er sich von anderen unterscheidet, die treibt auch mich immer noch um. Ich kenne viele, aber eben nicht alle. Daher wanderte dieses Buch in mein Regal. Es ist ein Stofflexikon, das die Stoffe aber nicht aus der Sicht des Technikers betrachtet, sondern aus der Sicht des Modedesigners. Daher werden die Stoffe im Hauptteil nicht nach Herstellungsverfahren oder Material geordnet, sondern nach dem Effekt. So lauten die Kapitelüberschriften: Klare Kontur Fliessende Linie Dekor Volumen Figurbetonung Dabei werden auch Varianten vorgestellt, die streng genommen kein Stoff, sondern eine Verarbeitungstechnik sind, wie Falten oder Smoken. Aber wie gesagt, die Materialien werden vom Effekt her gesehen, den man damit erzielen kann. Jeder Stoff wird dann auf einer Seite oder Doppelseite im Lexikonstil vorgestellt. Es gibt eine kurze Beschreibung die auf Herstellungsverfahren, Material, Zwirnung des Garns,... eingeht. Dazu tabellarisch die jeweils typischen Merkmale, Vorzüge und Nachteile des Materials aus Sicht eines Bekleidungsherstellers sowie die handelsüblichen Faserzusammensetzungen. Abgerundet wird es durch viele Photos, Designbeispiel, eine Großaufnahme des Stoffs sowie in kleinen Bildern Varianten des jeweiligen Materials. Für den ganz schnellen Überblick zeigen Symbole die Gewichtsklasse und das Herstellungsverfahren. (Damit man sich das nicht alles merken muß, gibt es hinten im Buch eine kleine Legende zum Ausklappen, so hat man es immer im Blick.) Da sich die Stoffbezeichnungen nach den Handelsbegriffen richten, findet man unter dem gleichen Bezeichnung ganz unterschiedliche Sachen und Herstellverfahren. Bei "Velours" etwa unterschiedlos Web-, Querfaden- und Wirkware, Pannesamt und Möbelstoff,... aus meiner Perspektive etwas ungewöhnlich, offenbart aber auch wieder die eine oder andere neue Perspektive. Die Bilder sind meistens hilfreich, wobei die kleinen Bilder bei dunklen Stofffarben nicht immer genau illustrieren, was der Text erklärt. Oder meine Augen sind zu schlecht. Und damit man mit den ganzen Begriffen wie Stapelfaser, Filament, Panamabindung,... nicht ganz durcheinander kommt, gibt es im Einleitungskapitel einen Schnelldurchlauf durch Materialien und Herstellungsverfahren. Auch die Abläufe der textilen Produktionskette werden kurz erklärt. Schließlich richtet sich das Buch an Modedesigner, die Entwürfe für industrielle Produktion herstellen sollen. Hinten im Buch gibt es dann zusätzlich einen Teil, in dem die Stoff nach Herstellungsverfahren in Tabellen geordnet sind. Glossar und Register fehlen natürlich auch nicht. Mir gefällt das Buch gut und obwohl ich schon eine Menge über Stoffe weiß, habe ich reichlich dazu gelernt. Etwa wie viele unterschiedliche Webstoffe aus Baumwolle in Leinwandbindung es gibt. Wäre schön, wenn die Stoffgeschäfte das auch dazuschreiben würden. Aber ich konnte doch viele Stoffe aus meiner Sammlung den Begriffen zuordnen. Bei den Elastikstoffen hingegen wird mir das Buch helfen, künftig meine Bestellungen deutlich besser zu verstehen. Da sich das Buch an Designer richtet, wird ein gewisses Vorwissen erwartet, das Einleitungskapitel ist von hoher Informationsdichte und für vollständige Anfänger vielleicht etwas überfordernd. Aber für jede ambitionierte Hobbyschneiderin ist das Buch hilfreich. Wer Stoff meist online bestellen muß wird künftig weniger Überraschungen erleben (so der Shopeigentümer die richtigen Stoffbezeichnungen kennt...) und bei Überlegungen, welcher Stoff ein adäquater Ersatz für einen nicht erhältlichen ist, kann es einem auch weiter helfen. Fazit: Empfehlenswert! (Einzig die etwas uninspiriert eingestreuten Informationen zu Ökologie und "Nachhaltigkeit in der Mode" hätte man weglassen können. Sie wirken ohnehin pflichtschuldig aufgepfropft und gehen nicht wesentlich über Allgemeinplätze hinaus. Zu dem Thema gibt es andere Bücher.)
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