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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Hallo, nachdem ich über 40 Jahre mit wegen einer Hüftdyplasie extrem gerade gestellten Schenkelhälsen und den daraus resultierenden Folgeproblemen (Streckdefizit der Hüften, nach hinten gedrücktes Gesäß, Rundrücken...) herumgelaufen bin, habe ich im Juli 2018 und im März 2019 Hüft-Teps (="neue Hüften") bekommen. Die Umstellung darauf war etwas mühsam, anders als bei Leuten, deren Hüften normal funktioniert haben, bevor da Arthrose rein kam. Aber mittlerweile klappt das Gangbild einigermaßen, und ich erlebe im Moment eine Überraschung nach der anderen, was die Passform meiner Kleidung betrifft, und das ohne irgendwelche Gewichtsveränderungen. Ein Grund: ich kann mich jetzt leichter aufrecht halten und tue das auch. - So gefalle ich mir auch im Spiegel viel besser... Vor Jahren habe ich mir mal eine Bluse nach Müller & Sohn gebastelt, weil gekaufte Hemdblusen nie passen und das Angebot in Langgrößen für mich die Schultern zu schräg hat. Meine Anpassungen damals: Schultern 1,5 cm angehoben, Rücken 1 cm breiter, Brustbreite 1 cm weniger, Anpassung Rundrücken 1 cm. Und den Brustabnäher habe ich zur Seite gedreht und dann durch Anzeichnen am unteren Armloch den Abnäher zusätzlich um weitere 1,5 cm vertieft. Also Abnäher vertieft, ohne zusätzliche Vorderlänge herzustellen. Das wird so ähnlich bei Natalie Bray in DRESS FITTING beschrieben; mir hat das hier am Ort mal eine Schneidermeisterin so gezeigt. Leider wohnt sie nicht mehr hier... Nun habe ich diese Bluse gestern mal anprobiert - und mein blaues Wunder erlebt: sie sitzt über der Brust und am Halsauschnitt seltsam, und es fehlen 1,5 cm Vorderlänge. Also habe ich mich erst mal in meine Bücher vergraben. Klar ist: ich kann mein Becken jetzt besser aufrichten und in Folge davon auch die ganze Wirbelsäule. Und das hat Auswirkungen auf die Balance. Mein 1. Versuch war, dass ich am oberen Rücken 1 cm quer wegheftet habe. Das wars aber nicht, damit rutschte der Kragen nach hinten. Also immer noch Rundrücken, und wahrscheinlich war der 1 cm etwas knapp kalkuliert gewesen. Dann habe ich mich ans Vorderteil gemacht: 1,5 cm zusätzlichen Abnäher ins Armloch gesteckt. Dann die Schultern am Hals noch mal 5 mm gerader gesteckt und den Halsausschnitt 1,5 cm tiefer gelegt. Den Grund für letzteres verstehe ich nicht ganz, das ist ja mehr, als ich seitlich weggenommen habe. Aber irgendwie rutscht die Bluse,wenn ich mich krumm hinstelle, weiter vorne nach unten. Diese Bluse werde ich so lassen, aber ich will den Schnitt anpassen für Nachfolger. Und - noch wichtiger - ich brauche dringen einen neuen Blazer und weiß jetzt nicht so recht, wie ich meine neuen Erkenntnisse bezüglich Abnähertiefe und Vorderlänge da anwenden soll. Der Blusenschnitt ist ja nicht ganz so passformsensibel, da werde ich das VT auf Abnäherhöhe waagrecht durchschneiden und dort die fehlenden 1,5 cm reinbasteln. Schultern und Kragen sind da auch kein Problem. Mich lacht dieser Jackenblazer an: https://www.burdastyle.de/produkt/katalogschnitt/blazer-und-jackenblazer-f-s-2016-6569_6569 Variante A. Allerdings habe ich Zweifel, ob die Abnäherlösung für mein D-Cup vernünftig anzupassen geht. Alternativ evtl. Wiener Nähte, aber Ausschnitt, Taschen und vordere Kantenrundung mag ich so. Und ich will das Teil füttern. Die oben aufgeführten Anpassungen für die alte Hemdbluse habe ich bereits an Burda-Schnitten gemacht; das hat da auch funktioniert. Also muss ich da vermutlich auch die 1,5 cm zusätzliche Vorderlänge rein basteln, zusätzlich zu den 1,5 cm Zusatzabnäher ohne zusätzliche Vorderlänge. Oder ich konstruiere das Teil selber. Die Hemdbluse ist mit 4,3 cm Balance konstruiert, wenn man die Rundrücken-Anpassung mit rechnet, bei OW 102 cm. Wenn ich da jetzt noch 1,5 cm zusätzliche Vorderlänge drauf packe, bin ich bei 5,8 cm Balance. Nach Hofenbitzers Rechnung darf ich bis 5,7 cm Balance gehen (bei Toleranz 1 cm), das geht also so gerade noch. Aber: reicht dann der Abnäher, der sich daraus ergibt? Und noch eine Frage: bei der Bluse habe ich gleich für die Konstruktion die angepassten Werte für Rücken- und Brustbreite genommen. Hofenbitzer schreibt, man soll diese Änderungen hinterher vornehmen. Warum? Wo wirkt sich das aus? So, das ist leider reichlich lang geworden. Sorry. Ich hoffe jetzt einfach mal, dass jemand von euch die Zeit findet, sich damit zu befassen.... LG gundi
  2. Hallo! Ich versuche gerade ein Schnittmuster für ein Kleid aus dem Buch "Kleider nähen" anzuassen. Da ich eine geringe Oberweite habe, muss ich ein SBA machen. Leider ist mir das neu und die Anleitung im Buch lässt ein paar Fragen offen. Es wird angegeben, dass ich die Länge von der Schulter zur Taille messen soll. Diese Länge sollte das Oberteil auch haben. Dann kommt der SBA selbst. Ich weiß nicht wie und an welchen Stellen ich Schnitt zusammenschieben muss. Muss ich hier schon die bestimmte Weiter erreichen oder die Brustpunkthöhe oder irgendwas? Oder schiebe ich einfach alle Teile pauschal aus allen Richtungen um z.B. 1,5 cm zusammen? Wenn ich das so machen sollte, dann wird doch die Länge des Oberteis kürzer. Gleiche ich das aus, damit die vorherige Länge wieder erreicht wird (die auch dem gemessenen Maß entspricht) oder wie muss ich damit umgehen? Freue mich über Hilfe! Danke