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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. © elkaS Stoff und FadenMateriallexikon Autorin: Constanze DerhamSeitenzahl: 160Format: 12 x 17 cmPreis: € 14,00 (D)ISBN: 978-3-00-054777-5 Nachdem wir bereits zwei Bücher von Constanze Derham vorgestellt haben, wusste ich, dass man bedenkenlos kaufen kann, was sie schreibt. Also habe ich im Dezember, als ich zufällig das Erscheinen von Stoff und Faden mitbekam, gleich ein Exemplar bei Constanze bestellt. Das Buch erscheint nämlich im Eigenverlag.Motivation für das Buch war nach dem, was die Autorin am Ende des Buches dazu schreibt, der Wunsch nach einem kleinen handlichen Stofflexikon für den Hobbygebrauch. Sowas hab ich auch schon oft vermisst und mich deshalb über Constanzes Idee, ein solches Buch selbst zu schreiben, sehr gefreut. Ich weiß nicht, wie lange es von der Idee bis zur Fertigstellung gebraucht hat, aber ich stelle mir vor, dass es eine Menge Arbeit gewesen sein muss, all die Informationen zusammenzutragen, die dieses Buch enthält. Das ist nämlich, was drin ist: Konzentrierte Information zu Stoffen und Fasern.Zur Einführung geht es los mit der Erklärung der Brenn- und der Reißprobe, die man anwendet, um eine grobe Materialunterscheidung vorzunehmen, wenn die Zusammensetzung des Stoffes unbekannt ist. Dann folgt Wissenswertes zu Garnen, Zwirnen und Garnstärken, und schon ist man im Hauptteil, dem Lexikon, angelangt. Hier werden alphabetisch sortiert nicht nur Stoffe, sondern auch Fasern, Webarten, Herstellungs- und Veredelungsverfahren und einiges mehr beschrieben. Es kommt also stellenweise Technik und Chemie drin vor, aber für den interessierten Laien kurz und verständlich erklärt. Ich finde, das zeichnet das Buch aus. Es erklärt nicht nur, wie ein Stoff ist. Es erklärt auch, warum er so ist. Oft gibt es außerdem Ausführungen zur historischen Entwicklung der Textilie. Besonders schön finde ich die Erklärungen zur Herkunft mancher Stoffbezeichnung. Diese beinhalten zum Beispiel kleine Ausflüge in die Geschichte der Textilherstellung oder Einblicke in den wissenschaftlichen Streitstand, wenn die Herkunft einer Stoffbezeichnung gar nicht abschließend geklärt ist. Hin und wieder erfährt man zusätzlich etwas über die Geschichte der Mode und ihre Protagonisten, die Designer, wenn diese einen Stoff zum Beispiel durch ihre kreative Arbeit überhaupt erst ins Gespräch oder in den Kleidungsalltag gebracht haben.Neben den Erläuterungen zum Material finden sich bei jedem Stoff kurze Hinweise, für welche Projekte er sich eignet, mit welcher Nadel er zu vernähen ist und wie er gebügelt werden kann oder sollte. Das sind aber wirklich nur kurze Hinweise, keine ausführlichen Erläuterungen zur Verarbeitung.Ach so: Womit das Buch nicht aufwartet, sind bunte Bilder. Ich habe sie nicht vermisst. Es gibt aber ein paar wenige Abbildungen, die meist zur Veranschaulichung beschriebener Details dienen. Dem Abschnitt über Leinen/ Flachs steht eine Zeichnung vom Gemeinen Lein oder Flachs zur Seite. Da musste ich unwillkürlich an den kleinen Maulwurf und seine blaue Hose mit den großen Taschen denken. :)Mir gefällt das Buch sehr gut. Die Verbindung der rein technischen Informationen mit historischen und sprachlichen Hintergründen macht es für mich sehr ansprechend. Man erfährt teilweise viel mehr, als man vielleicht von einem Stofflexikon erwarten würde. Da die Autorin es aber versteht, prägnante Sätze zu formulieren, hat das Buch trotzdem ein schönes Handtaschenformat. Wenn man will, kann man es also mit in den Stoffladen oder auf den Stoffmarkt nehmen. Für mich ist es aber auch eine unterhaltsame Sofalektüre, die ich zur Hand nehme, wenn ich mal wieder im Internet stöbere und mich frage, was ich mir unter dieser oder jener Stoffbezeichnung vorzustellen habe.
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