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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. So... erstmal: Entschuldigung. Ich hab mich extra für diese Frage angemeldet, weil ich überraschenderweise sonst im Internet noch keine Antwort gefunden habe, bzw. nichteinmal die Frage selbst. Ich habe auch hier eine Weile gesucht, es aber irgendwann aufgegeben... Das ist ja das Problem der meisten großen Foren - wer es nicht schonmal gelesen hat und sich an entscheidende Schlagworte erinnert, findet es auch nicht. Naja. Ich bin auf der Suche nach Alternativen zu Baumwolle, und zwar im Moment für Pullover. Stoffe für Hosen oder Röcke sind ja kein Problem, obwohl ich eine Menge Ausschlußkriterien habe, die ich, um die üblichen Fragen vorwegzunehmen, einfach mal aufzähle und begründe - wer es nicht lesen möchte und sich trotzdem für meine Frage interessiert, kann den Teil gern überspringen...: - Als jemand, wer sich für Tierrechte interessiert, kommen für mich schonmal nur pflanzliche oder synthetische Stoffe in Frage. Ich könnte natürlich auch rausfinden, ob Seidenraupen empfindungsfähig sind (gibt durchaus viele Insekten, bei denen das zu vermuten ist) und wenn nicht, dann feststellen, daß Seide für mich nicht bezahlbar ist. Ich habe auch gesehen, wie Schafe von ansonsten sehr netten Schäfern behandelt werden, und ich weiß, daß ihnen, da sie für die Menschen eben in erster Linie doch nur Ware sind, beim Scheren keine besondere Vorsicht zuteil wird (in manchen Fällen sterben Schafe sogar an den Verletzungen - vermutlich nur in wirklich riesigen Betrieben, aber wer weiß) und sie irgendwann geschlachtet werden - ganz bestimmt nicht aus Gründen der Sterbehilfe. Darüber hinaus sind und werden sie in einer Weise gezüchtet, die ihnen das Leben definitiv nicht angenehmer macht (viel zu viel Wolle usw.). - Ökologisch zählt Baumwolle zu den schlimmsten Anbauprodukten. Der Pestizidverbrauch ist vermutlich unübertroffen, und dabei werden sogar die schlimmsten Pestizide eingesetzt, wie DDT, was in Europa (zumindest in den meisten Ländern) verboten ist. Aus Erfahrung verboten, nicht die üblichen Machtspielchen... Darüber hinaus hat Baumwolle einen extremen Wasserverbrauch, Unmengen von Flußwasser werden umgeleitet, flußabwärts herrscht Wassermangel, der Grundwasserspiegel sinkt, und die Böden versalzen. Nach längerem Anbau von Baumwolle bleibt nur noch eine Pestizidwüste zurück. (Lustigerweise scheint das "hier" (West-, Mitteleuropa und vermutlich einige andere Großregionen) kaum jemanden zu interessieren - die Proteste gegen das ganze Gift in Kleidern haben sich gelegt, nachdem die Stoffe vor dem Verkauf/der Weiterverarbeitung gründlicher gewaschen werden.) Natürlich gibt es auch Bio-, oder besser noch, kbA-Baumwolle, aber den Zertifikaten lässt sich im Allgemeinen nicht vertrauen. Hab neulich gelesen, daß sechsmal so viel Bio-Baumwolle verkauft wie angebaut wird, und das stammt sicherlich nicht alles aus gelagerten Reserven. Daß Erdöl-Produkte als Ersatz nicht in Frage kommen, bedarf vermutlich keiner Erläuterung, wobei ich vermute, wenn sich die höchst verschiedenen ökologischen Schäden ineinander umrechnen ließen, würde Öl besser abschneiden als Baumwolle. So oder so sind die für einen halbwegs ökologisch vertretbaren Anbau brauchbaren Gebiete weltweit winzig, wenn am derzeitigen Verbrauch gemessen wird. Auch mit echter kbA-Baumwolle will ich den Gesamtverbrauch nicht noch weiter steigern. - Fair trade ist ein netter Gedanke und es ist sicherlich besser, "fair Gehandeltes" zu kaufen als etwas, das nichtmal diese Bezeichnung verdient. Ausbeutung ist es in aller Regel trotzdem, bei vielen großen Siegeln sogar eine regelrechte Verarschung - die Kriterien für "fair trade" sind oftmals lächerlich und vertuschen eher Arbeitsbedingungen und Lebensstandards, als daß sie z.B. den Leuten auf den Plantagen wirklich helfen würden. Baumwolle im Allgemeinen gehört wieder zu den ganz Üblen: Die Arbeit ist physisch sehr belastend, der Lohn reicht, wenn überhaupt, höchstens zum Überleben und die eingesetzten Pestizide bringen die Leute förmlich um, wenn auch nicht augenblicklich. Besonders zynisch wird das dann, wenn gesagt wird, es gäbe doch entsprechende, spezielle Schutzanzüge, es stehe den Arbeiter_innen frei, sie zu kaufen - die von dem Lohn kaum ihr tägliches Essen bezahlen können. Gentechnik steigert die Ausbeutung und die ökologischen Nachteile nochmal um ein Stück... Wie die Arbeitsbedingungen auf kbA-fair-trade-Plantagen aussieht, weiß ich nicht, vielleicht gibt es ja erträgliches... Das würde (für mich) wieder einiges an Nachforschung erfordern. Ein im Allgemeinen sehr guter Stoff, um Baumwolle zu ersetzen, ist Hanf. Hanf kommt sogar völlig ohne Pestizide aus (was sich auch irgendwann ändern würde, wenn überall riesige Monokulturen angebaut werden würden, aber so weit ist es ja noch nicht) und wächst auch sonst unter einer weiten Spanne an Umweltbedingungen, z.B. gleichermaßen in gemäßigtem wie in subtropischen Klima. Die Eigenschaften als Stoff sind größtenteils auch sehr gut. Nur finde ich jetzt nichts, was darauf hindeutet, daß Hanfstoffe für Pullover auch zu gebrauchen sind... Zwar rannten die Leute in Europa vor ein- oder zweihundert Jahren auch noch in Leinen-, Nessel- und sonstigen Nicht-BW-Hemden rum, aber da wurden sie auch nicht doof angeguckt, wenn sie verschwitzt in der U-Bahn saßen. Oder sonstwo. Über Ramie- und andere Faserpflanzen weiß ich fast nichts, habe aber auch noch keine Hinweise gefunden, daß sie für Pullis taugen würden... ach so, ich meine übrigens Pullover, die halbwegs warm halten können und nicht nach hundert Metern rennen vor Schweiß und Talg triefen. Also, die Frage bleibt... gibt es entsprechende (tier- und erdölproduktfreie) Alternativen zu Baumwollstoffen, bzw. ist Hanf vielleicht in bestimmten Webarten doch geeignet? Ich rechne ja nicht damit, daß sich hier schon wer ausgiebig damit befaßt hat, nachdem ich einen groben Überblick über die sonstigen letzten Threat-Titel habe... aber ich hoffe. Ich weiß, daß ich vielleicht erstmal die Region, in der ich wohne, gründlicher nach Second-Hand-Läden absuchen sollte, aber ich male mir da keine großen Erfolgschancen aus, zumal ich ja auch andere Öko-Interessierte kenne. Und ich weiß auch, daß mein speziell eigener Verbrauch da keine große Rolle spielt - der Symbolik selbst hingegen messe ich schon eine Bedeutung zu. Danke schonmal an alle, die sich überhaupt die Mühe machen, diesen viel zu lang gewordenen Text zu lesen... Die entsprechende Quellenfrage werde ich vermutlich (im entsprechenden Bereich) stellen, falls es eine positive Antwort gibt und ich wieder zwei Wochen erfolglos rumsuche.