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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Hallo zusammen, nun ist meine insgesamt dritte Jeans entstanden - zum zweiten Mal die Curvy Fit aus der Ottobre 5/2012. Ich finde auch diese Jeans ist wirklich tragbar, aber wenn ich mir die Änderungen und Hinweise bei Nähnettchens Anpassungsfred so ansehe (Hose Beckenschiefstand und anderes), ist die auch nicht perfekt, obwohl saumäßig bequem und besser als viele Kaufjeans, die ich im Schrank habe. Vor allem macht sie sich nicht auf den Weg nach unten, wenn ich mich setze, sondern bleibt genau da, wo sie soll ohne ungewünschte Einblicke zu liefern. Ich würde mich also über Eure geschätzte Hilfe sehr freuen, denn ich weiß nicht so recht, wie und wo ich anfangen soll. Einen anderen Schnitt zu nehmen (hier wären noch McCalls M5894 und Butterick B5682 vorhanden) hatte ich überlegt, aber ich glaube, die notwendigen Änderungen wären immer vorzunehmen wegen der Figurbesonderheiten. Ach, ich zeig Euch erstmal Bilder: Was ja gleich auffällt, ist der Formbund - ich nehme an, der soll eigentlich waagrecht um den Körper laufen? Hier vermute ich die Ursache in einem "backward hip tilt", ein nach hinten gekipptes Becken - wie meine Stütze, das Buch "Sewing Pants that fit" (auf deutsch "Hosen, die passen) sagt. Dann gibt es Stauchfalten hinten oberhalb des Pos, also welche unterhalb des Sattels und welche im Sattel. Sollte ich das einfach einkürzen und damit den Bund auch mehr hinten nach unten in Richtung Waagrechte bringen oder läuft die Hose dann Gefahr, beim Sitzen ein Bauarbeiter-Dekolleté zu zaubern? Und an der Balance des Schnittes würde diese Änderung ja nichts bewirken, jedenfalls wüsste ich nicht, wie sich das auf den Fall der Seitennähte auswirken sollte. Jedenfalls ist da zuviel Stoff, was der Meinung des Buches entgegensteht, dass bei einem backward hip tilt auf jeden Fall ein protruding seat zu prüfen wäre (ein vorstehender Po). Last but not least der leichte Anfall von Katzenbart. Der kann teilweise durch das angebrachte Pocket Stay verursacht sein (bis vorne zum RV durchgezogene Taschenbeutel, damit sie sich nicht beim Tragen verdrehen), aber ich glaube, da stimmt mit der Schrittkurve noch was nicht so 100%ig. Ich denke mir, dass zuerst die Kippung berücksichtigt werden sollte, weil sich dann wahrscheinlich die anderen Dinge ändern. Und ich würde gern Ditte o.ä. für die Probeversuche kaufen, denn der Schnitt ist für Jeans mit 10% Dehnung vorgesehen. Das ist nicht soooo viel, finde ich. Das sind so meine Überlegungen. Nun wäre ich für Euren Ratschlag dankbar. Ist das so, sollte ich mit der Kippung anfangen und wenn ja, wie mache ich das denn? Das Buch schlägt da vor, mehr Platz in der Hinterhose einzubauen - aber da ist doch schon Stoff übrig Viele Grüße, haniah
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