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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. "Selber machen" heißt das bei mir . Mein derzeitges Objekt der Begierde ist ein Mantel von Gucci. Das Original liegt preislich jenseits dessen, was ich in irgendeiner Weise für Kleidung ausgeben würde...knapp 3000 Euro? Nee, niemals. Was brauche ich denn, wenn ich selber zu Nadel und Faden greifen möchte? Einen Schnitt. Hab ich inzwischen gefunden: Modell 110 aus Burda 3/2012. Schlicht und ohne Schnörkel. Paßt. Stoff. Hell. Wollig. Am besten nicht fransend wegen der Rüsche/ Falbel. Hab ich inzwischen im örtlichen Stoffgeschäft erworben. Strickwalk in excellenter Qualität. Cremeweiß. Knöpfe. Hm, ich hätte diverse helle in meinem Fundus. Auch cremefarbene annähbare Druckknöpfe hab ich doch noch irgendwo, glaube ich...ich verschiebe die Suche auf später. Vlieseline (dehnbar) zum aufbügeln wäre auch da. Sehr gut. Aber vielleicht geht es auch ohne Vlieseline. Das wird sich während des Nähprozesses zeigen. Kommt Zeit, kommt Rat.
  2. Hallo zusammen, zwar weiß ich nicht, ob es jemanden interessiert, aber da ich die WiPs hier immer klasse finde und mir schon so manches abgeguckt habe, versuche ich mich auch mal an einem. Eigentlich wollte ich mir ja nur ein Empire-Kleid für Fastnacht nähen, aber da gehört ja auch was drunter - Short Stays oder zu Deutsch ein Kurzmieder. Für den ersten Versuch und als Fastnachtskostüm gedacht, habe ich keinen Anspruch an Authentizität, d.h. ich nutze die Materialien, die vorhanden sind und nähe mit der Maschine. Begonnen habe ich schon am letzten Wochenende und bin auch relativ weit gekommen. Ein paar Bilder habe ich bereits im Werkelthread Werkel-WE 26.-28.01.2018 - Hobbyschneiderin 24 - Forum gezeigt. Das hier wird also sozusagen eine Nachdokumentation. Dann also los… Das Schnittmuster Zuerst habe ich das Internet abgeklappert und mich schlau gemacht. Es war wie immer ein Quell der Inspiration an Bildern und zum Teil auch an Anleitungen. Da meine Zofe nicht immer verfügbar ist, habe ich mich für ein Mieder mit Vorderverschluss entschieden. Das Schnittmuster habe ich zunächst nach dieser Anleitung (How to Draft Regency Short Stays - Mistress of Disguise) gezeichnet, dann aber in einigen Punkten abgewandelt, weil ich damit nicht zurecht kam. Z.B. hätte bei mir einer der Brustkeile unter dem Träger gelegen, den hätte ich gar nicht einbauen können. Gearbeitet habe ich mit Zoll-Maßen, weil viele Anleitungen aus dem amerikanischen Raum kommen und es so für mich einfacher war. Benötigt werden folgende Maße: - Gewünschte Miederhöhe - Unterbrustumfang - Höhe Unterkante bis Armausschnitt - Abstand Brustwarze zu Brustwarze - Abstand Brustwarze zu Unterbrust - Brustumfang - Umfang an der Unterkante - Abstand Träger zu Träger Für das Vorderteil habe ich mit einem Rechteck begonnen. Höhe = gewünschte Miederhöhe, in meinem Fall 7" Breite = Unterbrustumfang : 4 Gemäß Anleitung habe ich anschließend rechts oben eine Rundung für den Armausschnitt eingezeichnet, 1,5" nach links und nach unten bis zur Höhe Unterkante bis Armausschnitt. Dann folgte ein Zipfel zur Befestigung des Trägers und zwar in der Verlängerung des Armausschnittes 2" nach oben und 2,5" nach links. Nun wird der Brustpunkt markiert. Von links Abstand Brustwarze zu Brustwarze : 2. Ausgehend von diesem Punkt wird die Position der Brustkeile bestimmt. Lt. Anleitung je 1" links und rechts davon. Weil das bei mir aber nicht hinkam, habe ich einen der Keile direkt links neben dem Träger platziert und den zweiten im Abstand von 1,5" links daneben. Dafür habe ich Linien eingezeichnet, von der Oberkante kommend, Länge = Abstand Brustwarze zu Unterbrust und an deren Enden schräge Schlitze für die Nahtzugaben platziert, die am Ende der Linie enden. Nicht am Ende der Linie mit den Schlitzen beginnen, sonst werden die Keile zu lang. Ich habe 3/8" NZ gewählt, finde aber die Keile unten etwas zu breit. Das nächste Mal würde ich nur 2/8" nehmen. Für die Brustkeile zeichnet man ein Dreieck Höhe = Schlitzhöhe - Nahtzugabe Obere Breite = (Brustumfang-Unterbrustumfang):4 Zum Schluss habe ich die Seitennaht (rechts) noch etwas abgeschrägt auf den Umfang an der Unterkante : 4, weil es mir bei der ersten Anprobe unten etwas zu weit war und ich keine Zugschnur einbauen möchte. So, ich glaube, ein Bild sagt mehr als tausend Worte….. ... so man es denn erkennen kann. Ich hoffe, ich drücke mich einigermaßen verständlich aus und morgen geht es dann weiter mit dem Rückenteil und den Trägern.