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  1. Elegant mit aufwendigen und ausgefallenen Details, so fällt mir die Vogue Herbstkollektion 2016 ins Auge. Designer Zweiteiler Tom and Linda Platt Modell V1516 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Da sich Vogue gerne mit Designerschnitten schmückt, ist das natürlich nicht so überraschend. Ein schönes Beispiel ist dann auch der Zweiteiler V1516 von Tom and Linda Platt. Das Oberteil bietet durch die vielen Lagen dem Auge Abwechslung, durch die gerade Form bleibt es aber gradlinig und sachlich und gar nicht rüschig. Dazu gibt es wahlweise Hose oder Rock. Und wem das zu viel ist.... ein Schnitt für ein schlichteres Oberteil mit gemäßigten Fledermausärmeln ist auch dabei. Mit eleganten Schlitzen in den Ärmeln. Wer es etwas verspielter mag, dem gefällt dann sicher Kleid V1513, das durch die schlichte, klassische Grundform den Volant über Ausschnitt und Schulter effektvoll in Szene setzt. Wer sich selber gerne in Szene setzt und den großen Auftritt liebt, der wirft einen Blick auf Kleid V1514 von Bellville Sassoon. Echter Wow Faktor. Um die Figur drunter muß man sich gar nicht so viele Sorgen machen, das Kleid kommt mit einem Unterbau mit Stäbchen. (Was dankenswerterweise sogar eines der Bilder zeigt.) Kleid V9200 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Wer sich an so schwierige Modelle noch nicht heranwagt, der kann sein Nähglück ja erst mal mit Kleid V9200 versuchen. Von der Basis her ein Etuikleid ist es als "Easy" klassifiziert , hebt sich aber durch den Überwurf im Vorderteil dann doch aus der Masse heraus. Natürlich kommt man auch ohne Kleider durch den Herbst. zum Beispiel mit dem Top V9205, das als "Very Easy" klassifiziert ist, durch die nach außen gewendeten Abnäher am Hals aber ein Detail enthält, das einen Blick wert ist. Gleichzeitig zeitlos, elegant und modisch ist das weich fallende Shirt V9204 mit V-Ausschnitt und der derzeit quasi unvermeidlichen Schluppe. Sollte ebenfalls keine nennenswerten Schwirigkeiten beim Nähen bieten. (Es sei denn, man sucht sich einen schwierigen Stoff wie flutschige Viscose oder Seidensatin. ) Wer es gleichzeitig lässig, aber mit ungewöhnlicher Silhouette mag, für den bietet sich V1515 aus der Today's Fit Serie von Sandra Betzina an. Ein vorne kurzes, weites Top trifft auf einen asymmetrischen Rock in leichter Boule Form. Überhaupt darf es diesen Herbst bequem sein, Der Vogue Wardrobe Schnitt V9215 bietet Kleid, Hose, Jacke... alles lässig, aber als Ensemble sieht es dann doch sehr korrekt und angezogen aus und nicht, als hätte man den Tag auf der Couch verpasst. (Es gibt also Alternativen zu Jogginghose und Leggings. ) Einen anderen Trend der Saison greift Jacke V9213 auf, hier dürfen Fransen reichlich ihren Charme versprühen. Und so lange es nicht zu kalt ist, kann man die verschlusslose Jacke auch schon drapieren. Die Jacke vom Marcy Tilton Ensemble 9216 bietet sich ebenfalls eher für die Übergangszeit an. Aber die tulpenförmige Überlappung bringt dafür die Hose oder auch einen schönen Gürtel gut zur Geltung. Jacke Modell V9212 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY Nachgenäht: Jacke V9212 Für eine Jacke hat sich auch unsere Testerin Huskylok entschieden. Ihre Wahl fiel auf Modell V9212. Diese Jacke bietet viel fürs Auge, vorne die schrägen Ecken und eine klare Form durch entsprechende Teilungsnähte, hinten ein verspielter Einschlag durch ein weich fallendes Schößchen. Erhältlich ist der Schnitt in den Größen 32-48 (bzw. 6 bis 22), unsere Testerin hat sich Größe 38 (bzw. 12) gewünscht. Entschieden hat sie sich dann aber nach der Hüftweite für Größe 14 und lieber obenherum angepasst. "Ich passe obenrum dann an. Ist nur sehr wenig Anpassung notwendig." Generell hat sich unsere Testerin an die Maßtabelle gehalten und war damit auch zufrieden. Für sie passt das: "Bei Vogue immer fast bis auf den Millimeter genau." Jacke Modell V9212 Copyright McCALL's ® Company, NY So fiel es ihr auch nicht schwer, den Schnitt an die eigene Figur anzupassen: "Ja, Von schmalen Schultern zu breitem Hüftbereich. Kenn ich. Habe ich schon sehr oft gemacht." Überhaupt findet Huskylock den Schnitt auch vom Design her schon perfekt für ihre eigene Körperform, was ihr (unter anderem) gut gefällt: "Die wunderbar schmale Ausführung von der Schulter bis zur Taille und dann die Weite für die Hüfte. Außerdem sind alle Schnitte von Vogue immer sehr gut konstruiert. Besonders klasse sind die Zeichen. Die sollten auch alle übertragen werden. Bei den Ärmeln sind so schön viele Zeichen, daran sollten sich andere große Hersteller mal ein Beispiel nehmen! " Nur einen kurzen Hals sollte man bei dem hohen Kragen nicht haben: "Ich habe glücklicherweise einen langen schlanken Hals. Der Schnitt ist bei den gegenteiligen Hälsen problematisch. Hier ist dann Anpassung notwendig." Die Stoffwahl fiel ebenfalls nicht schwer, eine schwarze Schurwolle wurde es. (Deswegen für das Photo auch ein wenig aufgehellt.) "Ich habe mich an der Mengenangabe orientiert und dann einen Ballen schwarze Schurwolle gehabt, der nun angeschnitten wurde. So kommt als nächstes noch eine schlichte schwarze Hose dazu." Mit der Anleitung gab es ebenfalls keine Probleme. Wobei unsere Testerin schon Erfahrung mit Jacken hat und ihr Wissen und ihre Erfahrung in die Verarbeitung hat einfließen lassen. "Die Anleitung ist sehr gut zu verstehen. Setzt allerdings Basiswissen im Nähen voraus. Vor allem müssen die Begriffe beherrscht werden. Mir gefallen die Zeichnungen immer sehr gut. Ich vermisse nichts." Die Anleitung wird als verständlich beurteilt, aber vielleicht nicht unbedingt für völlige Anfänger. "Jeder Schritt ist gut dargestellt. Allerdings sind Fachkenntnisse in den Details erforderlich." Jacke V9212 mit akzentuierender Borte Bild: Kühl Das Ergebnis ist dann auch ausgefallen wie den Bildern nach zu erwarten und unsere Testerin hat vor, den Schnitt noch einmal zu nähen. Nicht überraschend, daß sie den Schnitt weiter empfiehlt: "Der Schnitt ist für Jackennäherinnen ohne weiteres geeignet. Bei der Figur sollte nicht so viel Oberweite vorhanden sein. Hals ist wichtig, sonst muss der Kragen kürzer werden." Und auch das Fazit positiv ausfällt: "Ein schöner Schnitt für Frauen mit schmalen Schultern und fraulicher Hüfte. Die Ärmel sind angenehm weit, so dass auch eine Bluse darunter passt. Sie lassen sich auch sehr gut ausarbeiten. Toll sind die in der Naht befindlichen Taschen. Auch bietet das schöne lange Vorderteil genug Freiraum für Verzierungen oder tolle Knöpfe." Wir danken der Firma Cremer KG aus Euskirchen (Generalvertrieb für McCall's (Butterick, McCall's, Vogue) in Deutschland), für den zur Verfügung gestellten Schnitt.