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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Nachdem ich jetzt schon einige Male für eine Fragenstellerin einen Burda-Workshop zu figurbedingten Schnittänderungen herausgesucht habe, habe ich die Links mal zusammengestellt. Hier die (hoffentlich) komplette Liste: Reiterhosen Flacher Po Wenig Busen Grosse Oberweite (FBA) Hängende / abfallende Schultern Entenpo-Haltung Vorstehender Bauch Kräftige Oberarme Kurzer Oberkörper Hohlkreuz schmale Taille, breite Hüfte ungleiche Hüfte +Auf Leas Wunsch ergänzt+ Tief sitzender Busen Schmaler Rücken Runder Rücken Langer Oberkörper Lange Beine Kräftige Oberschenkel Breite Schultern Grüsse, Lea
  2. Schnittvorlagen entwerfen und abwandeln Barnfield, Jo / Richards, Andrew Haupt-Verlag ISBN 978-3-258-60068-0 29,90€ Das Buch ist im März 2013 erschienen und ich möchte es Euch kurz vorstellen. Das Buch beinhaltet auf 191 Seiten die folgenden Themen mit den jeweiligen Kapiteln: Grundlagen • Ausstattung • Kleidung herstellen • Stoffe verarbeiten Schnittkonstruktion • Schnittvorlagen konstruieren • Schnitte anpassen • Schnitte abnehmen Schnittentwicklung • Teile erweitern und raffen • Ärmel • Kragen • Bund und Manschetten • Öffnungen und Verschlüsse • Säume, Belege und Futter • Taschen Berufsziel Designer • Das eigene Label In einer kurzen Einführung werden die grundlegenden Begriffe und Kennzeichnungen der Schnitte erklärt (z.B. Fadenlauf, Nahtlinie, Falte, Knopfloch usw.) Im Kapitel „Ausstattung“ wird das notwendige Zubehör beschrieben, aufgeteilt in wichtiges Zubehör und nützliches, aber nicht unbedingt erforderliches Zubehör. Das Kapitel „Kleidung herstellen“ beinhaltet eine Übersicht über die häufigsten Arbeiten, wie Vorbereiten, Stecken und Nähte wie z.B. Stütznaht, Steppnaht, Französische Naht, Kappnaht u.v.m. Außerdem gibt es eine ausführliche Erklärung der verschiedenen Abnäher-Formen. Im dritten Kapitel geht es um die Stoffverarbeitung von der Vorbereitung bis zur Fertigung. Der zweite Teil des Buches widmet sich der Schnittkonstruktion. Es gibt Grundschnitte, die im Buch auf Rasterzeichnungen enthalten sind und so im angegebenen Maßstab auf Papier übertragen werden können. Das Thema „Schnitte anpassen“ wird mit Zeichnungen und Anpassungstipps behandelt. Ein weiteres, wie ich finde, interessantes Themas ist „Schnitte abnehmen“. Hier werden sowohl das „flache“ Schnittabnehmen wie auch Schnittabnehmen durch drapieren erklärt. Teil 3 „Schnittentwicklung“ widmet sich den Änderungen des Grundschnittes. Erweitern, Raffen und Falten, wie auch Ärmel und Kragen mit den jeweiligen Änderungen werden mit vielen Zeichnungen erklärt. Der vierte Teil des Buches widmet sich angehenden Designern. Das Buch beinhaltet keine Konstruktion von Schnittmustern nach eigenen Maßen, wie ich es eigentlich erwartet hätte. Es beschäftigt sich eher mit den Möglichkeiten, vorhandene Schnitte bzw. die Grundschnitte aus dem Buch, anzupassen bzw. zu verändern um so einen eigenen Grundschnitt zu erhalten. Hier gibt es dann aber viele Zeichnungen und Erklärungen zu den verschiedenen Anpassungen wie z.B.: Längenänderung/Weitenänderung Schultern anpassen Armloch zu weit/zu eng Ärmel anpassen Armkugel zu flach/zu hoch/zu weit/zu eng usw. oder Änderungen wie z.B: Wasserfall-Ausschnitt Glockenärmel Keulenärmel angeschnittene Flügelärmel usw. Die im Buch enthaltene Maßtabelle für die Grundschnitte beinhaltet die Größen S (34/36), M (38/40) und L (42/44). Die angegebenen Taillenmaße sind mit 62cm - 68cm - 74cm angegeben. Wer von diesen Maßen stark abweicht, wird auf die Anleitungen der Anpassungen hingewiesen. Da hatte ich mir etwas mehr versprochen. Wer aber gerne mit vorhandenen Grundschnitten bzw. denen, die im Buch enthalten sind, experimentieren möchte, findet hier viele Möglichkeiten, Anregungen und Anleitungen, da zusätzlich auch noch Anleitungen zum Zuschneiden, Nähen, Abnähern u.v.m. enthalten sind.