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Seit Jahresbeginn habe ich verarbeitet:

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  1. Der WiP kommt zustande, weil ich einer Nutzerin hier, MaryD, versprochen hatte, daß ich ihr die beiden Covernähte der Juki MCS-1500 und der Elna 444 zeige. Das wollte ich anhand meiner geplanten Softshelljacke machen. ABER... es kommt nun mal anders wie man denkt. Ich habe den potentiellen Schnitt für die Softshelljacke in meinem Fundus gefunden, aber bevor ich den Softshell zuschneide, möchte ich die Jacke mit Fleece probenähen. Die Jacke ist nicht so ganz einfach und Softshell trennen ist keine gute Idee. Da ich aber noch mehr Projekte für meine "sportliche Laufbahn" geplant hatte, befindet sich in meinem Bestand seit längerm ein Schnitt für ein Sportshirt und dazu passend 3 verschieden farbige Funktionsjerseys. Diese Stoffe und der Schnitt sollten sich von ihrer Art auch wunderbar für die Covermaschinen eignen. Sportshirt, kurzärmelige Variante: Stoffe: Nach den Angaben auf dem Schnitt, benötige ich die Gr. 48/50 bei meinem Brustumfang. Eine FBA wäre sinnvoll, aber der Schnitt besteht nicht einfach aus Vorder- und Rückenteil, sondern Vorder-, Rücken- und Seitenteil und sieht zu dem noch körpernah aus. Bevor ich anfange zu basteln, möchte ich den Schnitt als erste Version im Original nähen. Meine Kaufshirts haben da leider auch diese Herausforderung, daß ich sie wg. der Oberweite größer nehme und sie dann darunter eigentlich weniger Stoff bräuchten. Da ich die Teile mit der Nähmaschine zusammen nähe, habe ich die Chance die Nähte einfacher zu trennen und gegebenenfalls enger zusammenzunähen. Als Dekoelement werde ich die Covernaht einsetzen und selbstverständlich dann auch den Saum damit machen. Mal sehen, wohin mich dieser WiP/ dieses Experiment führt.
  2. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL01.JPG"align="right" width="375" height="500" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Juki MO-50e" /> Ich darf euch die neue "Einsteiger"-Overlockmaschine der Firma Juki vorstellen, und das möchte ich Schritt für Schritt tun, genau so, wie ich mich an die Bedienung meiner eigenen Maschine herangetastet habe. Zuerst die Fakten zur Maschine: Differentialtransport Stichlängenverstellung von 1mm bis 4mm Schnittbreitenverstellung Manuelle Einstellung der Fadenspannung Einfädelhilfe für den Untergreifer Obermesser wegklappbar Rollsäumen ohne Umbau Stichvarianten: 4-Faden-Overlock 3-Faden-Overlock 3-Faden-Flatlock 4-Faden-Satin 3-Faden-Rollsaum Erhältlich ist dieses Modell zum Preis von 399,- EUR (UVP). <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL02.JPG"align="right" width="438" height="500" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Zubehoer1" /> Zum Lieferumfang gehören eine transparente Staubschutzhaube, ein Abfallbehälter und eine Anleitungs-DVD. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL03.JPG"align="center" width="500" height="375" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Zubehoer2" /> Schraubendreher, Pinzette, Reinigungspinsel, Nadelset ELx705, 4 Netze für Garnkonen, 4 Fadenablaufscheiben, Innensechskantschlüssel, Ersatzobermesser und Ölfläschchen sind in einer kleinen herausziehbaren Zubehörbox auf der linken Maschinenseite, unter dem Einstellrad für den Differentialtransport, untergebracht. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL04.JPG"align="left" width="500" height="375" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Zubehoerbox" /> Rechts befindet sich über dem Handrad die Stichlängenverstellung. Als ich die Maschine ausgepackt habe, war eine Nähprobe unter dem Fuß, und die Garnfäden waren ganz knapp oberhalb der 1.Fadenführungen an der Maschine abgeschnitten und verknotet. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL06.JPG"align="center" width="500" height="375" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Farbcode" /> Ich habe die Garnfarben gemäß der Markierungen an der Maschine gewählt, so wie Ulla das in ihrem Overlock-Thema auch macht, also Obergreifer = Blau, Untergreifer = Rot, rechte Nadel = Grün und linke Nadel = Gelb. Ich bin ja eher der vorsichtige Typ und hätte deshalb am liebsten die sichere Variante gewählt, und zum 1. Einfädeln die neuen Fäden an die vorhandenen angeknotet, aber ich wollte ja herausfinden, ob es auch anders funktioniert. Tja, da wäre das Overlock-Abenteuer beinahe schon vorbei gewesen, weil ich fast am Untergreiferfaden (rot) gescheitert wäre. Und das kam so: <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL07.JPG"align="left" width="500" height="375" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Bedienungsanleitung" /> Die Anleitung ist zwar ausführlich, aber auch sehr international. Die Texte sind in Englisch, Französisch, Spanisch, Italienisch, Deutsch und Russisch abgedruckt, und zwar genau in der Reihenfolge. Der deutschsprachige Text steht also nie auf der gleichen Seite wie die dazugehörigen Abbildungen, und das erfordert viel Blättern und Aufmerksamkeit, auch wirklich bei der richtigen Textstelle gelandet zu sein. Damit komme ich zwar zurecht, aber die Übersetzung ins Deutsche ist für das Einfädeln des Untergreiferfadens einfach fehlerhaft! Ich habe es zuerst so wie im Text beschrieben versucht, aber das hat nicht geklappt. Ich habe mich dann gewundert, dass bei den Abbildungen eine dabei ist, die im Text überhaupt nicht erwähnt wird, und habe mir dann den englischen Text durchgelesen. Und siehe da, ganz anders . Meine Englischkenntnisse gehen ziemlich gegen Null, aber zusammen mit den Abbildungen ergab sich dann doch der Sinn... Hier sollte Juki auf jeden Fall nachbessern, ich bin gespannt, ob mir im Verlauf des Tests noch andere Unstimmigkeiten auffallen. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL08.JPG"align="left" width="300" height="400" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Fadenweg Obergreifer" /> Das Einfädeln der übrigen Fäden ließ sich ohne Probleme durchführen, und den richtigen Weg für den Untergreiferfaden zeige ich euch gerne später ganz genau. Aber nun wollte ich endlich losnähen! Ich habe für den ersten Versuch einen leichten cremefarbenen Interlock gewählt, damit man die Nähprobe gut beurteilen kann. Die Fadenspannungen sollen alle auf "3" stehen, und dann ging es los.Von oben schon ganz okay, die Verschlingung von Ober- und Untergreiferfäden lag etwas zu weit Richtung Unterseite, aber der linke Nadelfaden ergab große Schlaufen auf der Unterseite. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL09.JPG"align="left" width="375" height="500" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Oberseite 1. Naht" /> <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL10.JPG"align="right" width="375" height="500" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Schlaufen Unterseite" /> Ich habe den Wert direkt auf 4,5 erhöht, eigentlich soll man ja in 0,5er Schritten testen, aber die Schlaufen waren so groß, da musste mehr verändert werden. Jetzt lag die Verschlingung mehr auf der Oberseite, also untere Greiferfadenspannung erhöhen.Ich habe es mit "4" versucht, und mit dieser Einstellung (4,5-3-3-4) war das Ergebnis in Ordnung. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL11.JPG"align="left" width="500" height="375" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Fadenspannung korrigiert" /> <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL12.JPG"align="right" width="300" height="400" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Unterseite korrigiert" /> Die Verschlingung der Greiferfäden liegt genau auf der Mitte der Schnittkante. <img src="https://pictures.hobbyschneiderin24.net/images/redaktion/quetschfalte/Mo_50e_ftp/OL13.JPG"align="center" width="375" height="500" vspace="10" hspace="10" alt="Verschlingung" /> Die Werte für die Fadenspannungen gebe ich immer in der Reihenfolge an der Maschine an, also linke Nadel-rechte Nadel-Obergreifer-Untergreifer. Als nächstes werde ich mir die DVD anschauen. Das Einfädeln wird da sicher korrekt gezeigt werden, aber es sollte ja auch ohne vorhandenes DVD-Laufwerk, nur mit Hilfe der gedruckten Anleitung, möglich sein. Wünsche für Versuche werden gerne entgegengenommen, am Sonntag ist bei uns Stoffmarkt, da werde ich mich hoffentlich mit ein paar "Problemstoffen" eindecken können. Ansonsten habe ich jede Menge an Jersey, Piqué, Sweat, Fleece, Nicki, Winterfrottee und diversen Dessousstoffen auf Lager, und daraus würde ich dann gern das eine oder andere Teil nähen. Annekatrin (Sofern nicht anders gekennzeichnet, sind alle Bilder in diesem Thema von mir.)